How to Choose a Reciprocating Saw Blade
By The DIYPicks Team · Updated July 2026
Picking a reciprocating (recip) blade is really four decisions: what material you are cutting, the TPI, the blade metal, and the length. Get those right and a $10 blade does what a fistful of wrong ones cannot.
Start with the material, not the brand
The single biggest mistake is buying a blade by price or brand instead of the material it is rated for. Wood, nail-embedded wood, thin metal, thick metal, PVC and plaster each want a different tooth design.
Most blades are color-coded and labeled by material on the packaging. Read that first: a 'metal' blade in wood cuts painfully slowly, and a coarse 'wood' blade in metal strips its teeth in seconds.
TPI: teeth per inch
TPI controls speed versus smoothness and which materials are safe. Low TPI (3-7) cuts wood and demolition fast but rough. High TPI (10-18+) cuts metal and leaves a cleaner edge but slower.
The rule for metal: keep at least three teeth touching the material at all times. Thin sheet or conduit needs high TPI, while thick stock can use a coarser metal blade. Variable-tooth blades (like 5/7 or 6/9) split the difference and reduce vibration.
Bi-metal vs carbide
Bi-metal blades are the affordable all-rounder: flexible, break-resistant and fine for clean wood, occasional nails and general metal. They dull fast in abrasive or nail-heavy work.
Carbide-tipped blades cost several times more but survive hidden nails, cast iron and thick steel, often lasting many times longer. Use carbide when the wood is dirty (nails, screws, grit) or the metal is thick and abrasive; use bi-metal for everything else.
Length and stroke
Blade length should exceed the material thickness by at least an inch of stroke so the blade fully clears the cut, but avoid excessively long blades that flex and wander on thin stock.
For flush and plunge cuts near a surface, a shorter, stiffer blade tracks straighter. For deep demolition through a wall or a thick beam, step up to a 9 in or 12 in blade.
Match the blade to common jobs
Demolition / nail-embedded wood: coarse carbide, 5/7 or 6/9 TPI, 9 in. Clean framing lumber: bi-metal wood blade, 6 TPI. Thick metal / cast iron: carbide metal blade, 8 TPI. Thin metal and conduit: bi-metal metal blade, 14-18 TPI.
Keep a small assortment in your case rather than one 'do-everything' blade. Swapping a $10 blade to fit the material is always cheaper than fighting the wrong one.
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Frequently Asked Questions
- What TPI is best for a reciprocating saw?
- It depends on material. Use 3-7 TPI for wood and demolition, 8-10 TPI for thick metal, and 14-18 TPI for thin metal and conduit. Variable-tooth blades like 5/7 cover a range while cutting smoothly.
- Can one reciprocating blade cut both wood and metal?
- Wood-and-metal (demolition) bi-metal blades exist and handle mixed material like nail-embedded wood, but they are a compromise. For best speed and blade life, use a dedicated wood or metal blade when you know the material.
- Are carbide reciprocating blades worth the extra cost?
- Yes for dirty wood with hidden nails, cast iron or thick abrasive steel, where they can outlast bi-metal by many times. For clean lumber and occasional cuts, bi-metal is the better value.